Rome In a Day (And a Half)

Allison, with all the luggage

Although the surgery ruined the three night stay in Rome we had planned, we were able to arrange an overnight stop (This is a pretty long post, so please bear with me). When we landed our first order of business was to track down our bags which had made the initial flight. Luckily, we located them quickly and were on the move before the rest of our flight had even gotten their luggage from the baggage carousel. Much to my chagrin, doctors' orders prevented me from carrying anything heavier than 10 pounds so poor Allison had to lug around the heavy packs and suitcases, while poor me had to look like a jerk making his wife carry all of the luggage. I explained to just about anyone we talked to how I had surgery and couldn't carry anything.

Devery, I took this for you.

After a thirty-ish minute ride to our hotel, we dropped off our gear and headed out to explore the Eternal City. As an enthusiast of ancient Roman history, I was nearly beside myself at finally being in this place that I had only seen through books and movies. Too boot, I had just finished an historical novel on Michelangelo so I was recently steeped in the Renaissance as well.

*** For unknown reasons, only about 1/3 of the photos will allow you to 'click to enlarge' ***

First stop… an overpriced tourist trap of a restaurant. No matter, as we just needed some fuel for the day as we were going to see the whole city by foot (for all of the walking we were going to be doing). Literally next to our hotel was Trajan's Forum, a mostly unspectacular ancient ruin with a somewhat spectacular column at the far end. These and the other ruins we would see really do live up to the name "ruins." They're all essentially partial columns, arches and most of all, loose stones that in no way resemble their original states or, for that matter, discernible structures.

From there we headed across the street to the gaudy National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II and Museum of Italian Unification. Briefly, V. E. II was the first king of Italy, having united the various Italian states and kingdoms in 1861 to create, for the first time since the Roman Empire, a unified Italian peninsula. You know, the recent stuff.

Allison, admiring Trajan's Column

One level of the Unification Monument

Next level up on the Monument

Despite it also being next-door, we skipped the Coliseum.  It was practically calling our names, but we had bigger plans for that biggest of attractions. We instead meandered up to the Trevi Fountain, made all the more beautiful by the sinking sun. Counter-intuitively, the throng of people only added to it's charm. You'll never see it alone so why not experience it as a spectacle? After absorbing the fountain (figuratively) and thinking about our friends Afton and Nick who got engaged at this very site, we again put our feet to the concrete.

 


We next arrived at the other tourist mainstay, the Spanish Steps, but not before some delicious gelatto and cool water from the public fountain. We briefly did what all visitors do on the steps, which is sit, then were onward again. We still had a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it!

Cool water from a public fountain

Looking down the stairs

Looking up the stairs

Smiling at the stairs

Next stop: Piazza del Popolo, where among other things stands an Egyptian obelisk from 1200 BC originally brought to Rome by Augustus, first Emperor of Rome. On a side note, one of the most lamentable things about history is how little of it we actually possess or know for certain. Whether lost to war and conquest or time and memory, we have only a tiny fraction of art, literature and knowledge that existed in ancient times. Rome itself was both a perpetrator and victim in this destruction and even self-cannibalized by tearing apart its ancient structures for building materials, leaving them in the 'ruins' described earlier. Anyways...

Fountain in the piazza

Getting late

Augustus's stolen obelisk

The twin churches of Santa Maria di Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli. Allison is hiding in here somewhere.

At the recommendation of our incomparable Eyewitness Travel guidebook (Seriously, these are hands-down the best guidebooks out there. We don't go anywhere without them.), we headed into the Santa Maria di Montesanto to hear the monks perform Gregorian chant. Have a listen:

It's hard to describe how hearing this made me feel, but I suppose 'reverently thrilled' gets the notion across.

Back out into the Piazza, we made our way up some steps then a switchback road to take in an elevated view of the city from the edge of the Villa Borghese, Rome's largest green space, to take in the stunning view of Rome at sunset.

Sunset over Rome, Sean

Piazza del Popolo, or 'the People's Square

The dome on the horizon in the video and the picture to the left is St. Peter's Basilicia in the Vatican City, which served as an inspiration for the the U.S. Capitol building.






After all of this walking it was now time to revictualize. Again heeding the book, we stopped at the lovely Edy, and even though the mother/son couple next to us had the same Eyewitness Travel book, the restaurant was nothing approaching touristy.

Candlelight dinner outside of Edy

With night having fallen and us worn and weary, it was time say 'goodnight moon.' One more trip past the Spanish Steps (where a few more photos were in order) and it was nighty-night.

Goodnight, moon

Spanish Smooch

Night Street

"But what about the Coliseum?" you must surely be screaming aloud. Well, we had a gameplan in mind, which was to sleep well and wake early in order to see that most iconic of Roman icons. Up with the sun, we headed down the road with the Coliseum steadily growing as we approached it. Nary a tourist (Hey, Matty!) was out and about, so we had the street to ourselves.

Early morning view from our hotel window, in the foreground lies Trajan's and Augustus's forums

The streets were empty as we headed towards the Coliseum

Getting closer...

Lots of post-effects, but I made this one my desktop

We were too early to go inside, but I have a pretty good feeling that we'll be back to Rome before too long. After taking in the building from every angle possible we wandered off to see what we could see in our final hour.

 

 

In the course of wandering we stumbled upon what seemed to be a large open field, until Allison recalled from her previous trip to Rome that this was the Circus Maximus, home to the famous chariot races of ancient Rome. One final stumble upon was the far side of the Roman Forum, the heart of the ancient city. In spite of this site being ruins, it's easy to visualize the grandeur it once embodied. And finally, in the midst of all these historic sites, we made a few lighter observations as well.

Jogger along the Circus Maximus

Roman Forum

Tiny car with a 'Club' on the steering wheel. And a flat tire.

Caesar, about to show Brutus what he thinks of him.

And with that, it was time to head to the airport and begin our new lives in Malta.

Thanks for reading,

Sean & Allison